|Preparing Raw Whale Teeth for Scrimshaw Page 2|
|# 6: It is now necessary to remove the scratches left by the sanding process. Heavy scratches left by coarse grits are removed and replaced by the lighter scratches of progressivly finer grits until the last & finest scratches visibly disappear. Any number of grit sequences will work, such as 100, 180, 280 dry papers followed by 400, 600, 1500 wet papers. Failure to remove previous grit scratches will require you to go back and do that grit over. Avoid flat spots on the curved surface of the tooth by using circular, as well as vertical and horizontal motions with the sanding block. Always keep the paper moving across the ivory or the ivory moving on the belt.
A filter mask should be worn while sanding ivory.
|# 7: Inspect every square centimenter of your ivory often, using some type of magnification. Inspect under strong lighting and turn the ivory in all directions. Mark any scratches found with a soft pencil, then resand before going to the next grit.|
|#8: Low speed final polishing with automotive "Rubbing Compound" will completely remove 1500 grit scratches. I use a red compound to reveal missed fine scratches. Avoid compounds with waxes or silicones. Hand polishing with the liquid formulas on cotton cloth work equally well. Final buff with a minute amount of Renaissance Wax Polish, using a clean, soft, dry cotton cloth. No water is used during final polishing.|
|#9: Many modern-day scrimshanders find that polishing only a "window" on a tooth for the scene, and leaving the border raw, enhances their artwork. Many collectors also prefer to leave the tooth frame & backside as natural as possible.|
|#11: . . . achieving a highly polished surface over the entire tooth.|
|#10: Some teeth are best prepared with complete sanding and polishing. . .|
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